Day 15: Picking up Kar

I woke up early again, knowing it was going to be my last day to sit up on the roof with Govardhan. I chanted again, till it was time for the morning program. Another very sweet and nice morning program with another great lecture by Madhavananda Prabhu. I was only staying for half the day because I had to go to Delhi and pick up Kar that evening. After prasadam we had another seminar by Bhurijana Prabhu, a break, and then Sacinandan Swami's seminar. Every one of Sacinandan Swami's lectures was like Krsna talking to me through him! I appreciated those lectures so much, and wrote down as much as I could so that I could share it with Kar later. After his lecture, I came up to him and told him that I had to leave early because I had to pick up Kar. He was really happy to hear that Kar was coming, and gave me his garland to give to Kar! He told me that he would be really happy if we both came back to the retreat as soon as possible. I was pretty nervous about going back to Vrindavan in a taxi by myself, after hearing horror stories of people doing that, but after talking with Sacinandan Swami I felt better. I couldn't stay for the lunch because I was already late, so I just went straight in the taxi and started back to Vrindavan.
My driver happened to be a young man, probably to young to legally drive, who couldn't understand or speak English at all. About 2 minutes away from the temple he gets out, and runs off down this alley way, leaving me in the car. Luckily we were really close to the temple so I was so freaked out, so I just sat there and waited hoping he would come back. I figured if he wasn't back in 20 minutes I would just walk back to the ashram and get another taxi, but thankfully he came back in about 15 minutes without saying a word, just had a stainless steel pail in his hand.

Then we started driving again, Govardhan town was even more crazy and crowded then I remembered, and it took us forever to get through it. At first I was relieved that my taxi driver was young, but when we were driving through Govardhan I realized that he probably didn't have that much experience driving, and so that got me really nervous again. Needless to say I was at the edge of my seat the whole time, even more so when he turned off the main road and started hurtling down some small quiet farm road! I would ask him again and again" Vrindavana?", and he would just smile, shake his head, "Vrindavan". It was definately not the same road that we had come to Govardhan on, and I was throughly freaked out. I think I started singing Nashringa prayers softly to myself, because I was sure we were getting more and more lost out in the country. Finally our little paved road became this horrible bumpy, dusty dirt road, that went around and over little bridges, and through construction sites. We stopped at a railroad track for about an hour, with little kids asking for money every minute of it. Just when we came to the worst of all roads, with huge dips and holes, and I was just about to really freak out, I saw the sign saying Vrindavan. I have never felt so relieved in my life. It was a good thing that I only ate a few granola bars for lunch, because I was totally sick to my stomach by the time we got to the MVT.
When I went to see Yamuna and Dina, and Haribhakti, and told them of my adventure, they just said, " Oh yeah, that's the road to Govardhan, it's terrible." So my driver really did know where he was going the whole time. Anyway, by then it was time for me and Haribhakti to go to Delhi to pick up Kar. I pretty much had about 2 hours between the two taxi rides. Just enough time to look at our apartment, and tidy up a bit.
The way to Delhi was crazy but not out of the ordinary. I felt a million times better having Haribhakti there with me. We stopped at the huge sweet shop, Haldirama's, and got some more sweets and dosas. I wanted to bring some prasadam to Kar, but wasn't sure what would be edible for him and not too spicy. I ended up getting some dhoklas, that had a huge chili on top! Didn't know they came with that, needless to say Kar didn't eat those. Good thing we brought some prasadam that Yamuna had made too. We got to the airport around the right time, so we paid some money and got to wait in the airport instead of outside of it with the other throngs of Indians. After waiting a good 20 minutes, we started wondering if Kar's flight came in early and he was waiting for us outside or not. We asked one person who looked like they worked there, and he said" yes, the plane came 1/2 hour early." So Haribhakti went back out, looked for Kar everywhere, came back, asked some one else, they said it came 45 minutes earlier. Someone else said it hadn't arrived yet, and by the time someone was trying to tell us that there were no baggages on the baggage claim and everyone had left that flight, we realized they didn't have a clue as to what they were talking about. So we were a little stressed, hoping that everything was ok, and finally we saw Kar coming through. I was so excited to show him India!
We talked the whole way back, Kar practically got asthma instantly from the smog. He couldn't stop looking out the windows either, even though it was one in the morning and you could really see anything. We finally arrived in Vrindavan right around Mangal artik time. Kar was ready to go, but we decided it would be better to sleep first and then go with Yamuna and Dina the next day. But when we got to our apartment Kar got really bad asthma from the mildewy blankets and beds and from being so excited that he couldn't sleep at all. So he just sat in the living room and chanted instead, and I fell asleep super happy to have Kar here finally!

Day 14: First Day of Govardhan Retreat

I woke up early that morning around 4:30, it was too hard to sleep at the feet of Govardhan, and I really wanted to chant japa on the rooftop and watch the sun rise above Govardhan Hill. I took a cold shower, which helped me warm up, bundled like crazy, and went to the rooftop. It was so quiet out there, no one around, or really awake, too dark to really see anything, so I just went to the edge of the roof, sat facing Govardhan and chanted. About an hour later I was freezing cold, but totally peaceful and in content. Definately some of the best rounds I have ever chanted in my life. Finally the sky was getting lighter, and more people were coming to the rooftop, and I could just see the first beautiful rays of the sun peaking over the Hill, and lighting up the few clouds in the sky. I got really excited thinking that the sun would be coming up any minute now, but another hour went by, and it was time for the morning program, the sun still hadn't come up.

Anyway, the morning program was simple but nice. Instead of Bhagavatam, one of the seminar speakers, Madhavananda Prabhu, gave his seminar about Bhajan or worshippin in the mood of seperation. It was a really nice lecture. After the lecture it was time for breakfast, then another seminar by Bhurijana Prabhu, in this little in-closed wooded area, right beside our ashrams. It was also very nice; they had put up this big tent/pavilion, and you could just look at Govardhan hill the whole time. After his seminar, we took a break, and then it was Sacinandan Swami's seminar. That was also soo nice, it felt like it was especially what I needed to hear, because it was all about the proper and best ways to pray to the Vaisnavas and Krsna, and that was exactly what I was trying to do in Vrindavan. Everything Sacinandan Swami said was exactly what I needed to hear. I wrote down as much as I could of all the seminars to share with Kar when he got here.
After Sacinandan Swami's seminar it was time for lunch, and I was super happy to be able to help serve out the prasadam. We got to eat on banana leaf plates and bowls the whole time, so I was pretty excited about that. After prasadam, we had a few hours of break, so Lilamrta, KC, me and another girl named Christy, decided to walk a bit along the parikrama path. The first place we stopped at was this beautiful little temple right alongside the hill, where they worshiped this huge Sila of Govardhan, which was still actually part of the hill. They were continously bathing Him with milk, and the milk would run into the open gutters, making the whole surrounding area smell a little like rotting milk. But it was an incredible place to see, we gave a little donation, took some pictures, and the pujaris tied these orange sashes on our heads, and gave us some maha. Then they wanted to take us ontop of the hill to see the Madhavendra Puri temple, we kept telling them that we wouldn't go up there, but they didn't really get it. Finally one young pujari came running after us insisting that we go up with him, he said he was the head pujari of the Madhavendra Puri temple, and when we finally told him we were disciples of Prabhupada and that we wouldn't go on the hill, he left us alone.
We walked just a little ways until the path turned into the little town, and then we walked back, completely bombarded by the little street kids. Before we went into the ashram, we found a quiet, secluded place along the parikrama path, and just layed down and rolled in the wonderful dust! It was the funnest thing I have ever done! I didn't even want to get up off the ground, I can't even describe the wonderful blissful feeling I felt. It was like I wanted to run, dance, chant, laugh, cry, all at once. I have never felt happier or more satisfied in my whole entire life. It wasn't just me either, all of us where completely intoxicated from that experience. I feel so deeply grateful for that opportunity, I know that I didn't do anything to deserve being given that experience, and I know that all the bliss and joy I felt was Krsna's mercy on me, just trying to convince me that Krsna Conciousness is actually a very nice thing. How can you reciprocate with such love and mercy?

We got back to the temple in time for the evening kirtan, feeling like we were floating on air. The kirtan was lead by Sacinandan Swami, and after such an incredible day like that, the kirtan was completely overwhelming and unbelievable. After the kirtan, we listened to Jagattarini Mataji read the Vidhagada Madhava, by Rupa Goswami, and then we had a light evening snack. Although I had woken up so early in the morning, I was so excited and thrilled, that I wasn't in the least bit tired. Me and KC just went back to our rooms, and talked for a bit, and finally we went to sleep. Once again, I felt like each precious moment was going by too fast.

Day 13: On to Govardhan

November 27th, first day of the Govardhan Retreat! Our buses were scheduled to leave at 10:00 in the morning from the Krsna Balarama temple to the retreat ashram at the foot of Govardhan. I got up all early, super excited, but a little sad to be leaving Yamuna and Dina. After Mangal artik, I packed up my all my clothes (2 saris, and 1 gopi skirt- if you are wondering why I am wearing all the same clothes in all the pictures), and after breakfast I brought my backpack to the bus. KC, Lila, and Yammy were there also, just came to Vrindavan from their ayurvedic retreat in Delhi. I was really relieved and happy to see them, because I didn't really want to be at the retreat all by myself. Me and KC got a seat on the bus and waited to go.. and waited and waited. Finally around 12:00, we started to go. I was so impatient, and feeling car sick even before we left. The buses were sooo dirty!! They had these "white" covers on the headrest that were completely gray with yellow spots on them. I didn't want to lean back, lean forward, touch the window or the seat in front or the my own seat, or anything for that matter. Of course the ride was soo bumpy, but its always so crazy to drive in India that I wasn't bored for one minute.

About an hour later, we were squeezing through the incredibly busy streets of Govardhan town, honking at everything that moved or didn't. Every time I saw a tiny street, and thought there was no way anyone could drive through there, sure enough our big bus would turn up it and squeeze through. I was so concerned with us not hitting buildings, people, other buses, that I didn't notice that we were right beside Govardhan hill the whole time! I could have just looked out the side of the window and there He was! I had no idea. Finally we arrived at our ashram, got our things and went through the big gates to our buildings. As soon as I went through the gates I could see Govardhan Hill! We were really at His feet, I could run over and touch Him if I wanted too! He was soo soo beautiful! I felt so happy, so content and peaceful just to see Him, that I was ready to move in and stay there for the rest of my life. We (retreat people) had a meeting, they told us lunch would be at 2:00 and then evening kirtan on the roof at 5:30, followed by the opening ceremony in the "temple" at 6:30, followed by light evening prasadam.

Me and KC were sharing a room, so we went to check it out. Definately differant then the MVT rooms, ummm.. a little dirtier, and more austere. Our toilet didn't really flush, water just sort of ran into it for a couple minutes. If we wanted hot water we had to get it from downstairs and carry it to our room, we were on the third floor, so I just took cold showers. Good thing it wasn't too cold there, because we had no heating either, just the 5o pound blanket. But it actually felt good to be austere. After putting our stuff away, we went to get a better look at Govardhan from the roof top. What an incredible view! We could see the beautiful temple of Gopalji, and other samadhis, as well as the dusty parikrama path, and thousands of monkeys all over the hill. I had never seen so many monkeys before! And quite bold too.

I chanted on the roof for a bit, then went for lunch. After lunch I went with KC to a small kunda/bathing pond, not too far away. Another very beautiful place, although a little marred by the pollution. The water was thick green, so we didn't bathe in it, but we watched all the ladies wash their laundry there( hence the green water). There were also these huge, ancient kadamba trees there, with green parrots flying in and out of the leaves. We loved that place.

Finally at 5:30, we all assembled on the roof top, and Sacinandana Swami led the sweetest kirtan ever! I was in complete bliss to be sitting there singing, and looking at Govardhan hill, I didn't want the kirtan to ever end. But after the kirtan we all went down into the temple room, where the facilitators went over the program schedule, and each of the speakers gave an overview of what their seminar was going to be about. After that we had another kirtan, then Sacinandana Swami, Bhurijana Prabhu, and Jaggatarini Mataji, gave out Jagannatha Puri maha, and we went to have the evening prasadam, of puffed rice and tea. Perfect prasadam...hehehhee. The temple room was super incredible too, because they had these small tables that were covered in Govardhan Silas, not yet worshiped. I almost took one home, it was a perfect Krsna Balarama one. When it was time to go to bed, I could hardly sleep, I was buzzing so much from being in the presence of Govardhan Hill, of knowing that He was right there! I couldn't wait for the next day to come, yet I wanted each moment to last forever.

Day 5 -Day 12: Blissful Vrindavan Days

The week passed by as this incredible blur of activities in Vrindavan. I was staying with Yamuna and Dina Prabhus in an MVT flat, and we would get up around 1:30 in the morning (jet-lag or excitement?), and read together from Raghunatha Das Goswami's book, Vraja-vilasa Sthava; prayers glorifying Vrindavan and the Vrajavasis. I think that was my favorite part of the day. There was something so sweet, so magical about sitting in the holy Vrindavan Dhama, in the wonderful association of Yamuna and Dina, at the most auspicious time of the day, reading the sweetest book about Vrindavan. If just that was my whole experience of Vrindavan I would have been completely satisfied and blissful, but that was just the beginning of the day!

Around 3:30 we would go to Srila Prabhupada's Samadhi and chant upstairs, walking around the samadhi, till mangal artik around 4:15. Right after Prabhupada's mangal artik we would go to the temple room for mangal artik to the most beautiful deities. We would stay till after tulsi puja, and sometimes stayed to chant in the temple room, but generally went back to our rooms and took a nap (amazingly I was able to fall asleep after such incredible mornings!). After we woke up and had breakfast, Dina would take me to all the most incredible, wonderful places in Vrindavan.

First we went to Radha Damodara temple to offer our respects and obesciances to; Prabhupada's rooms, Sri Sri Radha Damodara, the amazing Govardhan sila of Sanatan Goswami, the Samadhis of Rupa Goswami, Jiva Goswami, and many others. What a powerful place! The spiritual energy coming from the samadhi of Rupa Goswami is indescribable, very overwhelming and intense. Somehow we were lucky and we were there right at the time when the pujari was making an offering, and he gave us a garland from Rupa Goswami's murti! Srila Prabhupada's rooms were also incredible, but in a very simple, sweet, and intimate way especially being there with Dina Prabhu. We also went to Radha Gokulanandan, Radha Raman, Radha Madan Mohan, Kaliya ghat, and so many many other temples. I can't possible describe how wonderful these places are, or how incredible it was to be with Dina and Yamuna there. Dina would tell me the stories about the places, and lives of the Vaisnavas and temples, and then we would go together and see those same places, and pray at the feet of the same Vaisnavas!! Despite all the pollution, the sewers, the monkeys, the beggars, the noise and crowds, with Yamuna and Dina there, I felt like I was really in the spiritual world. I couldn't see the opulence of Vrindavan but I could feel that there was something else there, and even with all my contaminations, and disqualifications I felt so so happy and blissful, like I have never felt before in my life.

We would come back for lunch, usually Yamuna Prabhu would cook something delicious, but otherwise we ate at the restaurant, or me or Dina cooked. After lunch we would finish chanting, read, rest, go to the temple bookstores, evening artiks, and early bed for another incredible day. Each day seemed more amazing and wonderful then the previous one!

On Ekadasi, me and Dina went on Vrindavan parikrama, early in the morning before the sun rose. As we were walking, the sky was getting lighter, and the most beautiful temple of Madhan Mohan was sillouetted against the brilliant sunrise. I will never forget that sight, with the birds chirping, bells and gongs playing, and insence blowing in the air, the real Vrindavan. When the sun finally came up, it was this huge red orb, rising right above the Yamuna river, all the boats with their colored flags bobbing gently on the water. Vrindavan is so beautiful! Of course, my camera batteries were dead that morning.
Another day, Dina took Haribhakti, Amal, Nadia, and me to see the Govindaji temple, and we even got to go into the cave of Rupa Goswami, where he found the Govindadeva deity! There is this ancient diety of Yogamaya there said to be 5000 years old, installed by Krsna's great-grandson. The deity is so beautiful, and so close to you, if you wanted you could easily reach out and touch her! Then Dina took us to the 64 samadhis, and to Bramha Kunda, Radha Raman temple, and a few other places. Every day was a new highlight for me! Every day was my favorite day! I wrote all these days in one entry, because I didn't actually keep a journal entry for these days, so I don't have the days really defined, they are just a jumble in my head. But after the 2nd or 3rd day of being in Vrindavan, we decided that Kar definately needed to come sooner, so we called him, and convinced to him to change his ticket for a week earlier! He would then get some time at the Govardhan retreat too. That was my first week in Vrindavan, somehow it went by quickly but each day felt like another drop of mercy on me. Being in Vrindavan is so intense, you become so acutely aware of how fallen, degraded, unqualified, and spaced-out you are, yet Krsna and His devotees are giving and giving and giving, this never ending flow of kindness and mercy, making you more aware of how much you don't deserve it! It's a very sweet kind of pain, if that makes any sense. All you can do is feel very very grateful.

Day 4: On the Way to Vrindavan...

We woke up early to go to Mangal artik for the last time in Delhi temple. Quite a nice morning program, I especially like when they bring a little murti of Prabhupada to all the altars for darshan. After the program, we had breakfast, then packed all our things into the taxi to go to Vrindavan!!! I was so excited!

What a drive! Our taxi driver was actually the most careful and respectful driver out of my whole Indian driving experience. Still we were completely car sick the whole time, of course no seat belts ever work, no security from anywhere. No one ever, ever follows the lines on the road, not even remotely, they hardly even follow the street lights! Blinkers are a joke, the only thing they use is the horn, and sometimes the brakes. Definately the most heart-stopping, stomach-clenching experience ever. Its so unreal, you really feel like you are in a video game or something.

On our way out of Delhi we stopped at this huge sweet shop/restaurant called Haldirama. An overwhelming amount of sweets that I never knew existed! We couldn't stay long, so I just picked out a sample of burfis and sandesh, (I was too intimidated to try the really crazy looking ones). Unfortunately, I didn't think of taking pictures. They were quite good too. Then we were on our way again. Now I really know what it means to play "On the way to Vrindavan I saw..." hehehee.. because I saw so many crazy things! Horse-buggies, elephants, camels, 4 people on a motorcycles, overcrowded rikshas and trucks, just to name a few. The nicest thing though was to sing the Samsara prayers with Yamuna and Dina as we entered Vrajamandal. Immediately you feel like you are floating above everything.

Finally we reached Vrindavan!!! I can't remember being that excited about anything in my life! We got to Vrindavan MVT, around 1 or 2pm, and just went straight to our rooms, to take a good nap.

After the nap, I walked around the MVT a little, just looking at everything. The monkeys, the parrots, the squirrels! Everything was amazing to me, the trees, the plants. Then around 6:30 we went to the restaurant to get something to eat, and then had an early night, because tomorrow we were going to go to Mangal artik in Srila Prabhupada's Samadhi!!! I was in Vrindavan!

Day 3: "Resting Day"

Today was supposed to be a resting day, but of course it didn't quite turn out that way. We had breakfast again, (another big, opulent kindof meal), and after breakfast Yamuna and I were going to look at the deity outfits ( to get some ideas for the outfits we wanted to make) and finish the museum. But some devotee lady came in, and talked to Yamuna for about 3 hours. I checked my email and did a few other things, and when the lady finally left, Yamuna went to check her email.

So me and Dina finished looking at the museum, which was quite nice, although some parts were still kind of intense, with the lights, and sound. For some of the shows you would stand in a completely dark room and then one part of it would light up on a picture or diorama or sculpture, and there would be some narration for the story. They did the Mahabharata that way, but it was annoying because they got the story all mixed up, and you never knew where to look or stand because it would light up behind you, in front of you, or on the side, or in the corner. But most of it was really nice, with some beautiful paintings and dioramas. They had an exhibition on the Ramayana, mostly just paintings, and the Srimad Bhagavatam ( mostly dioramas).

After lunch Yamuna and I went to see the deity outfits. That was pretty fun, going up to the pujari room and looking at all the outfits, something I always dreamed of doing as a kid..hehehe.. and still dream of doing. But the pujari room was a little depressing, it felt like it was in the attic or something, all dark, and uncozy. After that we were supposed to take a nap, but I had to go get all the money we just transferred and that took some time, and then I had to bring it all back and count it and divide it up, make sure it was all there. You wouldn't believe how many rupees I was carrying! It looked like I had just robbed a bank or something. It wasn't very far from the temple office to our guest room, but I was so petrified the whole way that some Indian would know and rob me, and then be set for life.

I had about 10 minutes after that, to get ready and then go to the auditorium, because they had asked Yamuna and Dina to speak to the devotees there. Poor Yamuna and Dina, they don't like speaking in public at all, and this was a full auditorium, plus the subject that they were supposed to speak on was book distribution. Yamuna was like "I've never distributed a book in my life!", and Dina was like" I am the worst book distributor ever." They even had to go sit on a big stage with these huge lights right in their face the whole time, and for some reason they gave Dina the big seat and Yamuna the little seat. But I thought their talk was great. Of course someone wanted Yamuna to sing the Govindam prayers, and after the whole talk Yamuna was stuck outside talking to one person after another after another. At one time she even had a whole line of kids just wanting to get her autograph, and this was at about 9:30 at night, after a full day of no rest. By the time we got back to the rooms, we were so exhausted.

We were thinking of doing some shopping the next day, but found out that most places would be closed, and after our resting day we decided it would be better if we just went straight to Vrindavan first thing in the morning.

Day 2: Lunch at Kanai Priya's house

So, day 2 of India. I woke up earlier then I meant too, but was way too excited to sleep. First thing I did was look outside my window and saw; a park with a big cricket field, a bunch of Indian guys playing cricket, a big German Shepard dog running after the cricket ball, huge skyscrapers barely visible in the smog, and smaller buildings everywhere with people hanging up laundry, building, cleaning, cooking, all on various stories. I wanted to just stand there and stare, but also wanted to go see the temple.

I got ready, went to see Yamuna and Dina, then went onto the rooftop to see the temple compound. It was so much bigger then I thought! But still cozy, clean, and beautiful. I took some pictures from up there, then I went down to see the dieties. Very sweet deities; Gaura Nitai, Sri Sri Radha Parthasarathi, Lalita, Vishaka, and Sita-Rama deities. In front of the temple is a really nice courtyard with a diety of Garuda in the middle, looking towards the entrance door. On both sides of the door are statues of Jai and Vijai. One of the nicest things about the temple is that there is a hallway that goes all the way around the deities so that you can circumambulate them. In the hallway there are pictures of all the deities from around the world on one side, and beautiful paintings of Radha and Krsna on the other side. Really nice place to chant.

of After I went and saw the deities we had breakfast (which was another really opulent thing). We had idli-shaped doklas, (they were juicy not dry), idlis, flat rice with potatoes, soup, fresh fruit, and little bowls with all kinds of nuts. I was already full from the night before, so it was alotprasadam, but all really good. After breakfast, we went to see the museum exhibits on the Bhagavat Gita. They were pretty good, but a little intense. Alot of flashing lights, colors, spotlights, etc. I wasn't allowed to take pictures. The statues and dioramas were really well done though, beautiful.

We rested a little and then it was time for lunch again, this time at Kanai Priya's house. KanaiPriya and his wife are these incredible disciples of Radhanatha Swami. They are the ones that are the parents of Sakshi and Amba. Anyway, Kanai Priya came to get us and bring us to his house. Another crazy trip through Delhi traffic. This time I saw elephants on the side of the road! About 8 of them, all painted and just casually hanging out on the side of this really narrow road. I didn't even see their master or anything. Of course we just honked at them and squeezed by as if it were the most normal thing to do in the world. By the time we got to Kanai Priya's house I didn't feel very hungry anymore. Driving in Delhi is like instant headache and car sickness.

full! Then after that incredible lunch they gave us all these beautiful silk saris! I felt like such a putz. But they were super friendly and wanted to know how the milkmaids were doing and how At Kanai Priya's house they had hung marigold garlands in the doorways, they had decorated the stairway with flower petals and lamps, and as we came up the stairs they showered us with flower petals! The decorations were like right out of the Krsna book! It was pretty embarrassing. They even gave us flower garlands and everything. It was a little overwhelming, especially to see such amazing service attitude. They really are some of the sweetest, humblest and most genuine devotees I have ever met. They sat us down on the couch, pulled out some tables, and started serving us this amazing 13 course lunch. We had: creamy carrot soup, dhal, lotus root soup, corn kernels stir-fried, green beans also stir-fried, steamed broccoli and baby corn, okra, fried potatoes and bitter-melon, super soft chapatis, rice, potato papadams, coconut-dhanya chutney, fresh water chestnuts, and fruit custard. (The water chestnuts are the weirdest thing I have ever seen, they are in this lumpy green shell, kindof looks like a frog, but so good!) I just took a tiny bit of everything and I was soo full. They were super friendly and kind, asking about how everyone was doing in Saranagati, especially the milkmaids. It felt like I had known them forever or something. They even gave us these incredibly beautiful silk saris! When we left they were giving us big hugs, smiling, laughing, waving to us all the way to the car, all the way until we couldn't see them anymore.

It was pretty dark by the time we got back and we were so exhausted by then that we pretty much just went to bed. I found the blankets this time. Hmmm, some more things. There were flowers, garlands, tulsi plants, everywhere. Even on the busiest highway of Delhi, cows and bulls just hang out calmly on the side, in the middle, or crossing the roads. They are the only things that don't get honked at. Lots of dogs too, and still so smogy. All the trees looked gray from the dirt on their leaves.

Day 1: Into Delhi

I arrived in Delhi on schedule (surprisingly), my flight service was the worst I have ever had. I was on the plane for 14 hours and they served water/juice twice. I kept calling the lady for more water, until she finally had enough and told me that I should get my own water from the self-serve counter by the bathroom. They served food once, and kept the window blinds down for the whole flight so that all the passengers could get a "good night's rest", that way they wouldn't be too jet-lagged the next day. I didn't even get to see out of my window once. On my last flight over to Delhi, I ended up sitting next to some young Sikh who lived in Delhi. I couldn't understand him very well, but he seemed pretty excited about sitting next to a young western girl. He started trying to convince me that Guru Nanak was Krsna in Kali Yuga when our dinner came, so he said "first we eat dinner, then we talk". Needless to say, I pretened to fall asleep very quickly after that, and then made sure I didn't really sleep the rest of the flight. So after we all had a "good night's rest" we arrived in Delhi at 10:00 p.m. at night. Pretty stupid. But I made it on time and that's what counts.
Hmm, the smell of India. I have been told about that so many times, and I was really excited about it. What does India smell like? Well, I get off the plane and there was definately a noticeable smell, but not quite what I had envisioned. This smell was more like the burning of tar, rubber, plastic, exhaust; the smoky haze sitting there for months without any breeze to shift it around. Pretty intense.. I went and got my luggage with no problems and met with Yamuna, Dina, Yammy, Lila, KC, right away. Then we went out and were very nicely received by some devotees from the delhi temple, with garlands and everything. A little embarrasing but that was just the start of it all.
We got into our waiting taxi, after very "firmly" turning down all the polite offers of help with the luggage from all the Indians there, actually Dina is very good at that. I just pretend like I don't know what they are saying, or doing, or that they are even there. Just when we were about to leave our driver got into a fight with another driver. I have no idea what it was all about, but the other driver kept slamming the door, and yelling, not letting our driver get into the car. Then the devotee lady that was with us got out and started yelling at the drivers. Just when it seemed to be getting really serious, they all stopped, got in the cars and drove away, "no problem".
The city was so smogy! The air around the lamps was greenish reddish, and you couldn't really see more then a couple hundred feet ahead. My nose instantly plugged up. But the driver didn't seem to care, and started speeding along the road. It was 11:30 at night and the streets were packed with cares, all honking, no blinkers, no stopping. Of course none of our seat belts worked. We asked our driver why no one seemed to stop at the red lights, and his reply " no rules at night", I am not sure what rules he was talking about. They don't follow rules during the day either. Yamuna asked our driver how many accidents he has been in, very modestly he held up 3 fingers, only 3. I felt sick the whole time, but sooo excited!!!! I couldn't keep my eyes off the side of the road, trying to look everywhere at once! I was finally in India!! It really felt like a hazy dream.
We got to the temple a little after midnight, feeling a little sick, very tired. But they had some prasadam for us, so I had to eat a little. Really good prasadam too: creamy spinach/veggie soup, cauliflower, pepper, pea subji; chapatis, dhal, carrot halavah with almonds, cashews, raisins, and lots of butter. pretty heavy midnight snack. So then we finally went to bed. A little hard falling asleep. My pillow felt like a concrete block, and my bed was not much softer. For some reason I thought I didn't have any blankets and sheets because they were in the cupboard and I didn't look for them, So I slept under my towel. Ended up waking up much earlier then I should have, still so tired, but totally excited. I was ready to handle anything! hehehee.. a great start to a great adventure!